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Thursday, July 31, 2008

Victoria's Secret Does Vintage?

I'm Always a Sucker for "Vintage-Inspired": I just received a Victoria's Secret catalog addressed to the old tenant (I love that!) and was surprised to see they are going for a new all-around look in their Fall preview collection. The concept and clothes actually caught my eye. In the past, Victoria's Secret has been where I purchase my unmentionables...and not much else. Their clothes always struck me as a bit too I'm-trying-really-hard-to-look-sexy, and that's not really my bag. This new collection is going for a Great Gatsby, Art Deco-inspired look, and some of the pieces are very feminine and lovely. The two particular heel styles below really made me smile -- turquoise satin and pumpkin orange Oxfords. The tops and dresses have interesting little details -- ruffles, layers, sequins, ombre sashes, etc. This stuff could really work for those girly moments...don't you think?


Pleated Bra Top ($88); Multi-strap platform sandal ($78); Silk dress ($118).


Silk tiered babydoll top ($58); Peep-toe oxford ($70); Merino wool embellished tunic sweater ($188).

She's a Dandy, Pt. 2

Here are some practical, fun ways I've found to play around with "menswear." Basically, with a combination of various hats, ties, scarves, and jackets/vests, it's easy to create a look in combination with other basic wardrobe items -- leaving room to make the ensemble as masculine or as feminine as I like. My versions always tend to have a bit of the 70's Patti Smith/Diane Keaton feel to them -- I'm not exactly an elegant Left-Bank-Parisian-Dandy like Louise and Romaine (from Pt. 1), but more of a casual, poor-grad-student-dandy.

"Thank You Sir, May I Have Another?" Dandy:

Hat -gift
Blazer - thrift store
Striped shirt - Old Navy
Tie - vintage
Skirt - Gap
Tights - Target
Shoes - Vintage

"Because the Night Belongs to Lovers" Dandy:

Sunglasses - Urban Outfitters
Tuxedo shirt - thrift store
Tie - H&M
Vest - American Apparel
Pleather leggings - American Apparel
Grey ankle boots - Payless
Adorable black pug named Olive -- farm in Kansas

"Come, Watson, Come, the Game is Afoot" Dandy:

Fedora - Target
Tuxedo Shirt - thrift store
Silk Scarf - gift
Silk-blend slacks - Vera Wang collection for Kohl's
Red-tipped suede platforms - Nine West


Monday, July 28, 2008

She's a Dandy (Pt. I)


Masculine/Feminine: I never belittle the fact that there is still much to be accomplished when it comes to improving gender equality. However, as a person who always tries to see the proverbial glass of life half-full, I often muse over the things that make being a girl seem...well, a whole heck of a lot better than being a guy. One of those things is, of course, fashion. We simply have more choice, more freedom, and generally more encouragement to be creative than men do. I feel grateful that society no longer makes me choose according to assigned gender roles, but rather that I can be an amalgamation of traits that have long been considered either masculine or feminine. Speaking of having the best of both worlds, I've always appreciated a bit of fashion-gender-bending. I find it particularly interesting that ladies seem to be able to take traditional male clothing and accessories and wear them with more style and panache than many of their gentleman counterparts. The famous song lyrics from Annie Get Your Gun come to mind: "Anything you can do, I can do better..."

(The image above left is Radclyffe Hall, lover of men's suits ...and author of the amazing novel, Well of Loneliness, published 1926).

Portrait of a Lady: This picture of the lovely Louise (below, right; from her blog Pandora) reminds me of early 20th century artist Romaine Brooks' self-portrait (1923). Brooks, a lesbian writer and artist during the early part of the 20th century painted portraits of herself and her fashionable friends and acquaintances dressed in men's attire. Like Brooks, many talented female/lesbian/avant-garde artists (particularly in Paris' Left Bank region) began co-opting dandy fashion for themselves. Thanks in part to these talented and provocative women, items such as men's hats, ties, ascots, collared shirts, riding pants, etc. began to slowly trickle into women's mainstream fashion... and continue to do so. Louise creates a sort of Victorian femme fatale with her version of the top hat (view her blog for the full outfit).




(left) Romaine Brooks, Self-Portrait, (1923); (right) Photo originally downloaded by pandora-pandora. blogpsot.com.

Warming up to Menswear: There is something a little seductive about a lady donning menswear, but let's face it, it's damn comfortable too. As I've said before, comfort is at the top of my priority list these days. It wasn't until the past few years, however, that I've actually felt comfortable playing with more androgynous clothing. Hats are a must for me these days, and I've recently warmed up to collared-button-ups (I was traumatized by private school uniforms, so it has taken me a while to recover). I'm also obsessed with Oxfords...but that's a subject fit for an entire post. I think as I've grown older, I've become more comfortable with playing outside of the confines of typically "feminine" clothing, and I like the idea of putting my own touches to menswear and experimenting with the options. I'd love a vintage top hat like Louise's, but they run several hundred dollars on Ebay...gulp. Oh well, I'll have to stick to my cheapie fedoras. Perhaps tomorrow I will play dress-up and see what dandy outfits I can come up with...and snap some photos?


More of Brooks' portraits:

Both by Romaine Brooks. (Left) Una, Lady Troubridge (1924). Peter, A Young English Girl (1923-1924).

Hats off to these ladies:

Vintage ladies donning menswear. Images from flickr.com.

Sunday, July 27, 2008

The World's Most Practical (and sexy) Heel?



Hard-Working Shoes: I base my clothing and accessory purchases on a combination of three things: comfort, practicality, and a gut feeling. While the first two considerations seem really boring, hundreds of unworn items and numerous "WTF was I thinking" moments have taught me to be much more vigilante about what I spend my money on. I want my wardrobe to do some serious work for me; I want to be able to wear an item (especially shoes) until they are worn out and I can look at them and say "Thanks...it's been a great run!" OK, if I spend under $25 for a pair of shoes, they are allowed to be a little impractical (for example, my really uncomfortable but very rad neon yellow heels from the 80's), but if they cost more than that, I want some staying power. Because of these qualifications, I have a notoriously difficult relationship with heels -- they have the ability to make almost any outfit "sing," but with so many cute flats out there, I have been harder and harder pressed to find excuses to pull my heels out of the closet.

A Good Buy: So, out of the fear that I might be headed down the path of Birkenstocks and orthopedic shoes, I made it my quest a few weeks ago to find a pair of heels that I would actually want to wear...often. I decided light brown leather sandals would be the most versatile, because they would look great with all of my variously-colored tights and most of my skirts and dresses. They can also be worn more casually (with a pair of great pleated pants), which is a plus in my there's-never-an-excuse-to-dress-up world. In addition, I wanted a heel that was slightly chunky, so the hobble-factor would be cut to a minimum. After much searching and list-making, I found my dream pair on Zappos.com -- a pair of strappy, chunky Seychelles made out of the softest leather...and with the cutest liberty print floral detail on the inside:



These were some of my runner-ups; so hard to choose:



All shoes from Zappos. com. First Row: Frye Amy sling-Back; Nine West Antonela; Nine West Sulliban; Michael Kors Bergen platform Madras; Second row: Frye Gabby buckle-T heel; Ralph Lauren Erin; Matisse Gilligan; Mia Worship.

Saturday, July 26, 2008

A New Take on the Cocoon Coat


What is a Cocoon Coat? Many new styles of coats emerged during the early part of the 1900s. Some of the more dramatic versions were a cross between a cloak, a coat, and a cape. Cloak styles during this time began to draw influences from the florid, swirling style of art nouveau patterns, often with oriental inspired lines and silhouettes. One of the more dramatic examples of a popular early-twentieth century coat was the "cocoon coat." The colorful print below by Georges Lepape (French, 1887–1971) from the French fashion magazine Gazette du bon ton (1912), depicts a woman wearing an elaborate cocoon coat with a wide fur collar.


Do I Look Puffy in This? After the 1920's, coats began to get sleeker, simpler, and form-fitting. It wasn't until the 80's that designers started experimenting more boldy again with folds, layers, and volume. I have to admit, when I see voluminous clothing ("puffy," for lack of a better word...or consisting of lots of folds and layers), I feel simultaneously intrigued and terrified. This ambivalence probably stems from the fact that I personally do not feel comfortable wearing clothes with loads of volume, which is due to a number of factors: (1.) I feel more "feminine" in clothing that is slightly more body-conscious. (2.) I already feel puffy, no need to make matters worse. (3.) It seems extremely out-of-context considering my location/environment. Having said that, there is something so queenly and powerful about larger silhouettes. These two girls below, who clearly have very distinct styles from one another, both somehow manage to pull off a voluminous coat/cloak in unique ways without looking like a stay-puff marshmallow.

Images from Facehunter. (left) It looks as if this girl's modern-day version of little red riding-hood was crafted using a piece of fabric folded and wrapped in an interesting way, then tied in the front. (right) This is such a casual, urban take on a vintage silhouette.

How Do I Make it My Own? Since I always try to step outside of my comfort zone from time-to-time, I began pondering ways that I could slowly work some more volume into my own wardrobe. I usually start dreaming of fall and winter around this time every year, so coats have been popping in and out of my subconscious lately. I think my answer to do-able volume is an item like a winter coat or hooded cloak in a neutral color and made from a fairly straightforward material like wool, or tweed. This way, the item is practical (it actually keeps me warm...who can fault me for wanting to be warm?), and the fabric itself isn't too avant-garde or over-the-top (letting the shape take center stage). These are gorgeous and way too expensive for me...but they give me a good idea of what to look for when I go thrift/vintage coat shopping at the end of the summer:



Mulberry Lurex cape coat NET-A-PORTER.COM

Oasis Cocoon Coat black,white,wool,buttons OSOYOU

Cocoon Sleeve Coat - Products - Fashion Addicts

Cocoon coat at oasis-stores.com

Friday, July 25, 2008

It's a Romper, No It's a Dress...No, It's a Scooter Dress



Well, it's not as chic as a Vespa, but it'll do. Too bad it's 103 degrees and too hot to go for a ride...

Will the Real Scooter Dress Please Stand Up: In all of my years scouring thrift shops and vintage stores, I hadn't come across one of these adorable creations until recently. The reason for their seeming rarity might be that practically no one in this part of the country rode a scooter up until a few years ago, but apparently the "Scooter Dress" was quite the rage in bigger cities during the 60's. Looking around the internet, I have noticed a lot of vintage dresses being dubbed "Scooter Dresses," but according to my understanding, a true "Scooter Dress" is a one piece shorts-romper overlayed with a skirt that wraps all the way around. So, when you are wearing it, it simply looks like a mini dress, but you can hop right onto your scooter and jet about town without any concerns for modesty. Too clever!

Surprisingly Versatile: Mine is a lovely ivory and black check number with a cute-but-not-too-cute bow at the waist. It is so slimming too... that always gets a gold star! This type of dress is rather season-less, so it ends up being very versatile: doll it up with some tights/leggings and boots (ala Blythe-style) and throw a cardigan over it for the Fall. Or, just go simple, with bare legs and some lace-up Oxfords. I would love to see more of these around for those of us who are little shy when it comes to the shorty-short rompers that are everywhere right now. Too bad I don't own a Vespa -- my vintage bicycle will just have to do.


Images from Flickr.com. 1960's Simplicity patterns for scooter dresses and matching capelets; Blythe looking mod and fetching.

Thursday, July 24, 2008

The Quiet Appeal of the Man-Bag



A Little Structure is Good for You: Lately, I have been feeling pretty bored with bags. The worn-in slouchy leather purse is a great standby, but I have had a hankering for something new. Over at the Facehunter I began to notice a handful of cute European boys sporting some rather debonair man-bags. Then, I noticed a couple of adorable ladies with uber-structured purses, and I knew this was my answer. Luckily, I found an amazing, barely-used shiny leather beauty from the 70's at a local vintage shop. I feel a bit like I'm carrying a mini-briefcase, and the handle is soft and a perfect length (hits my hips). I am going to have to get used to the fact that I can't just shove my hand inside and easily rifle around like I do in my softer, roomier bags, but it will keep me a bit more organized. The red and gold strip on the front flap gives it just a hint of Ivy-League, and the androgynous factor makes it even more appealing somehow. Yay for something different!



Now that I look at it, maybe it's not even real leather...oh well, that's even better. No wonder it was so inexpensive!



Images are from facehunter.blogspot.com.

The Red Dress That Just Won't Die


I Dedicate This Blog to You: I think it would be appropriate to dedicate Nothing Elegant to this lovely bit of red-polyester-goodness. I have had this dress longer than any other item in my closet (going on 13 years...). I found it stuffed in the back of my grandmother's mothball-ridden closet one lucky day, and it has been with me ever since. It might be more appropriate to dedicate this blog to my grandma, I suppose. Though she was never exactly what you might call a stereotypically stylish lady, she was always quite irreverent in her haphazard combinations of colors and prints. *Cheers" Granny!
I still pull this beauty out of the closet from time-to-time, and even though I have worn it A LOT, I still manage to figure out ways of making it seem "current." This dress reminds me what is so good about a little shot of sentimentality and nostalgia in what we wear. Like a great friend, it has remained loyal despite competing with the ever-changing, ever-shifting carnival in my closet.

Be a Little More Materialistic: Looking at the dress in one of my overly-philosophic moods, I began wondering whether or not people are really as "materialistic" as we accuse them of being. Does materialism mean simply that we think about material things too much, or does it mean that we highly value the material possessions we already have? If it is the first option, then yes, I think most of us are terribly materialistic (no judgment here, I'm the same). But if it is the latter, I think the answer is more complicated. It is so easy to forget the worth of those little treasures that have value beyond their newness. All that to say, this oddly flattering, semi-oriental shift dress with weird sailboats on it helps remind me that sometimes things are just awesome because they are uniquely ours.

Wish List: Late Summer Lusts

I'm so sick of sandals already...but cozy cotton items still seem really appealing...




(Clockwise from top left)

Topshop - Printed Lantern Shape Floral Skirt
Topshop - Kate Moss - Red Skinny Leg Jean
Forever21.com - Denim Vest
Topshop - Ivory Silk Ruffle Dress
EP - 'Marvelous' Colored Vintage Wayfarers Sunglasses
Baby Girl Boutique - Burlesque Peacock Feather Hair Clip
Topshop - Mustard 50 Denier Tights
UrbanOutfitters - We Who See In Between Black Oxford
UrbanOutfitters - Horse Bit Necklace
UrbanOutfitters - Made by Elves Brown Leather Lennon Skimmer
Topshop - White Woven Lace Up Shoe
Topshop - Stripe ruffle Bib Blouses

Welcome to Nothing Elegant!

Here are some things you might want to know about me and the Nothing Elegant project. Hope you’ll check back soon…

The Autobiography of a Blog: The title of the blog is a phrase that comes from Gertrude Stein’s kooky-cryptic poem Tender Buttons: “Nothing Elegant: A charm a single charm is doubtful. If the red is rose and there is a gate surrounding it, if inside is let in and there places change then certainly something is upright. It is earnest.” Aside from its literary origins, Nothing Elegant represents my own self-effacing approach to fashion. Like anyone invested in the notion of style and aesthetics, I work hard at what I enjoy (trying to cultivate my mind as well as my own personal style), but I have never and will never reach that point where I feel comfortable saying: “I get it!” Terms like elegance denote a sense of perfection, a sense of a rich-shiny-put-togetherness that I cannot -- and do not -- want to attain.



That's Gertrude (left) and her partner Alice. These ladies lived and breathed art, but their own quirky fashion statements (bag lady meets irreverent androgyne) made them just as famous/infamous.

Midwest Fashion?: I think my fairly humble, nonchalant (but still earnest) stance toward fashion stems partly from growing up in middle-America. The fact that I have always been interested in fashion and aesthetics in general is a bit of an anomaly considering my environment. I played with clothes and makeup growing up because it was an outlet for creativity and a way to set myself apart -- it was fun and made me feel empowered, but it was not rooted in any real outside influence (perhaps with the exception of Seventeen magazine). Of course, because of the advent of technology, people everywhere are more in touch with global fashion and culture than they were in my youth (late 70's and 80's). It is not unusual at all anymore to meet a young girl in the suburbs with an opinion on the current must-have brands and trendiest silhouettes for the season.



What would I give to get my hands on some of these old Seventeen's? Look at adorable Miss Jovovich on the first cover. I used to idolize her...still do, come to think of it.

Born on a Budget: The fact that I grew up in a family with a modest income also presented some interesting challenges during my formative years. When I was in elementary school, I remember making a detailed month-by month schedule of outfits I planned on wearing to school. Needless to say, my mother and I made a lot of trips to the Sears outlet store, and my dad dragged me around to thrift stores, yard sales, and vintage shops in order to satisfy my ever-shifting fashion demands. While I suffered from the occasional brand-envy in the past (and still do from time to time), I was satisfied with what was in my reach about 98% of the time, and I found creative ways to stay on trend…or to oppose the trends, depending on which fashion phase I was going through at the time (Victorian goth/club kid/skater girl/bleached blonde Barbie doll/grown-up career gal).


The two elusive items I never got my hands on: Guess jeans and Doc Marten's. Those white Doc Marten's are delicious...hmmmmm. Am I too old to sport those now? I definitely don't agree with the statement that if you were there for it the first time around, you should forego it the second time ;)

My Style Influences: As an adult, I have been lucky enough to have lived in some very diverse and fashionable places. I spent time in both Austin and Dallas, Texas; worked in Sao Paulo, Brazil; and lived in Hoboken, NJ/worked in NYC for two years. I became a sort of fashion and culture sponge, soaking in inspiration from everything around me (a task made much more accessible these days in the blogosphere). I still constantly inspect and analyze the nuanced ways stylish folks dress, do their hair, and apply their makeup. Needless to say, I do a lot of fashion blog surfing and some awkward public staring. As I moved around, I began incorporating the things that caught my fashion-fancy into my repertoire, while still trying to stay within my range of comfort and sense of personal style. Even though I am back in the Midwest again, I envision my style today as still drawing from and synthesizing a broad range of these earlier influences.



Sao Paulo (population 20 million) vs. Oklahoma (little over 3 million). I often wonder if someone can be truly avant-garde in their style if they grow up in a small town? Is it ground-breaking if no one appreciates it?

What is Personal Style?: While I can’t possibly define “personal style,” I do believe an important element of cultivating that elusive trait is constantly balancing between being aware of your comfort zone and environment (uncomfortable people never look stylish to me) and taking some risks with the knowledge you will make a blunder now and again. While I admire those people who have a certain “uniform” they stick to because they know it works, I prefer to allow my personal style to morph and shift according to creative impulses, constant experimentation…and a certain level of recurring boredom and ennui.

I am certainly no fashionista or style insider, but I think about style/fashion/consumerism a lot, and I try to maintain a critical eye. As a graduate student and researcher in literature/cultural studies, I think about the impact and influence that things like gender, advertising, sexuality, and Western culture have on us all (but specifically women!).


Books like Rita Felski's The Gender of Modernity have heightened my understanding of the relationship between female desire and consumer culture. It puts a new spin on the stereotype of the "female shopper."

But, I also spend a huge chunk of my time thinking about the new leather riding boots I want for fall and whether or not coral lipstick is flattering on my skin tone. This constant splashing back and forth between the “deep” and “shallow” ends of things can be rather mind-boggling (and I find that I tend to keep a lot of this ambivalence to myself), but I am beginning to believe it is important to articulate these complicated intersections.

So, here is Nothing Elegant -- an experiment in thinking and writing about things that make being a consumer, a woman, a reluctant intellectual, a shopaholic, and a regular gal, exciting, perplexing, and fun.